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Post by 7m4x4dude on Jun 30, 2010 2:36:20 GMT -8
;D Hey guy's. i bought this truck with hope's to do some thing with it fun one day, and w/ your help i think i wont have any issues with being successfull so here i am hoistin the supra engine into it's new home... Well here's one before i tore the front end off.. still had it on the trailor since it wasn't running at this time. hope to get it to pass emissions soon!
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Post by 7m4x4dude on Jul 2, 2010 2:07:42 GMT -8
well i've gather the ifs is going to get me no where so i've opt'd to get my self a straight axle.. which i have just need to wait for some parts to arrive and i'll start rebuildin the front axle!
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Post by 7m4x4dude on Jul 20, 2010 12:51:16 GMT -8
woot it passed emissions!
will be cleanin out the bed and hoping to meet most of the club tomorrow!
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Post by fivendime on Jul 20, 2010 14:38:00 GMT -8
will be cleanin out the bed and hoping to meet most of the club tomorrow! Umm, we dont have a club meeting tomorrow. It was last Tuesday.
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Post by 7m4x4dude on Jul 23, 2010 0:04:13 GMT -8
hahaha yeah i realized that after posted that ... i looked at the calender and was like duope im an idiot lol.. .
oh well it was all good though i spend the day fightin with my brakes.. haven't been able to get any pressure built up! grr, new master, new lines where old one's where rusted out and also new rear wheel cylinders! i dont see the fronts leakin...
but i noticed the new master was gettin stuck and not filling up correctly with fluid.
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shortbus
Charter Member
Every great day ends in POO!
Posts: 254
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Post by shortbus on Jul 23, 2010 10:39:12 GMT -8
did you bench bleed the new master before install?
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Post by 7m4x4dude on Jul 24, 2010 7:54:43 GMT -8
yes and no lol... i installed it on the booster and put the resivor on and found with the line's off i wasn't gettin flude so i worked on bleeding it on the car with line's off the master usin my thumb to cover the hole and couldn't get fluide .. sucked all the fluide out of resivor, thinking there could have been some sort of plug i missed since the front and rear bore's use different ports. with no luck still i pulled it back off the booster and in the vice it went. after it not wanting to accept fluid i pulled the c-clip and piston out, allowed the bore to fill and pushed it smoothly back in and replaced the circlip. we proceeded to bleed the brakes and it would firm up in the front bore ie pedle sinks till it was hitting the front brakes unfortitly the rear piston is not returning to the c-clip stop and it has to be an issue with how it was reman'd. either the springs are to weak inside the master, a hole hasn/t beem reemed or the bore size isn't true and centric.
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shortbus
Charter Member
Every great day ends in POO!
Posts: 254
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Post by shortbus on Jul 24, 2010 11:32:46 GMT -8
with a reman one it could be as simple as something didnt get cleaned well or could be like you said just a weak spring. I have had a few that were bad out of the box.
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Post by 7m4x4dude on Jul 24, 2010 14:31:58 GMT -8
yeah thats about how i felt about it so i brought it back to NAPA today... and walked out with a brand new master all pretty and clean..
installed it into vise, filled with fluide, watched fluide bubble, than start to leak out from the top port, so i plugged that as it continued to bubble, once the bubbles stopped i pushed the piston in, and it stopped at 1/8 inch stroke, so i repeteted that and this time i can see the fluide moving around as the piston is depressed and released..
well
long story short breakes still are not working. seems like the cup,s in this master are failing cause any time we get any pressure and try to firmly press the peddle the peddle collapses and doesn't seem to push very much fluide ....
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Post by 7m4x4dude on Oct 8, 2010 0:08:22 GMT -8
well i have been busy i've cut just about all the ifs stuff off. just a couple diff mounts remain that i didn't see in the way atm and i'll cut off latter. Now, im no welder by trade, so it looks pitiful at best but im getting the job done & nothing a grinder and more welding wont fix ;D i do know im glad this is a trail rig and a winter snow driver rather than a DD . im doin my best but i still feel like some thing isn't going to be right with my alignment lol. spring hanger tack'd in for checking alignment. driver side out side front shackle hanger. i used a torch to blow the hole's and well had some gaps to fill once i liked where the tube's liked with every thing attached and tight. pass side in this pic you can see how i'm going to need to change my exhaust to allow for front drive line droop oh i also got some new stuff; tires, i went with 35x12.50x15 km2's mounted on 7in wagon wheel's and they look more like 10.5's this way lol. i aquired a lockright through ebay, was searching google for best prices and it popped up in my search with a part number 1610-LR and was put up as a 90-97 landcruiser front end. and after alot of searching i figured the company he bought it from listed it only for his rig. and also put LR behind the part number to indicate LockRight. goofy i know but i scored it for 237 shiped and it's new in a rough box , ie never installed. i need to change pitmint arm's to work with the hysteer and fj80 rod end's. also need to consider the best parts place to order a double acting ram for hydro assist.. it looks so easy to install i figure it'll be a well worth it mod
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flipflop
Ok to Drive
attitude is everything
Posts: 178
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Post by flipflop on Oct 10, 2010 8:21:30 GMT -8
woot it passed emissions! will be cleanin out the bed and hoping to meet most of the club tomorrow! How do you like the 7M compared to the 22re now that you've had it running for a few months? BTW, welcome!! flip.flop
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Post by 7m4x4dude on Oct 10, 2010 13:18:41 GMT -8
i never got to drive this truck w/ orginal motor but my friends truck still has his 22r. and i do feel like i have some more power than he does. esp when you reach freeway speeds .. the motor definitly is a squeez with rad and fan. and i've also have broken both motor mounts and had to weld them solid. and some how broke my drive side welds once.. a body lift isn't nessacry with this swap but it helped clear thing's while i was still ifs and also gave me peice of mind if i needed to do a bhg fix. which it doesn't look like i'll have any problems with for awhile.. over all. free motor and my skills made this work very well. a 3.4 swap would fit better and provide about the same power and torque. but it does suprise people to see a supra motor stuff in a 4cyl engine bay so i say i6 for the win.
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flipflop
Ok to Drive
attitude is everything
Posts: 178
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Post by flipflop on Oct 10, 2010 17:53:50 GMT -8
i never got to drive this truck w/ orginal motor but my friends truck still has his 22r. and i do feel like i have some more power than he does. esp when you reach freeway speeds .. over all. free motor and my skills made this work very well. a 3.4 swap would fit better and provide about the same power and torque. but it does suprise people to see a supra motor stuff in a 4cyl engine bay so i say i6 for the win. Yah I've heard that on other Toy Boards, that the 7M revs. really well, works great on the street and it was free thats so awesome! Looks like the SAS is coming along, definetly measure everything 3 or 4 times it will pay off in the end when everything is square. Also on your brakes, did you bleed the load sensing proportioning valve on the frame above the rear axle? Snow season starts soon keep going... flipflop Attachments:
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Post by iceman on Oct 10, 2010 19:39:14 GMT -8
I love those motors. My supra had a 5m but I really wanted the 7m it's a much better motor with allot of power.
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Post by 7m4x4dude on Oct 10, 2010 23:02:30 GMT -8
i deinfitly been thinking about snow season in a few ways. i plan to get a ten x pass to meadows this year ;D and i already know two different groups that sound like they make a killer trek around different area's of mt st helens. well right now im in the process of tearin down a mkiii 4.10 diff to install into my front end w/ a lockrite in it. i also need to find a shop/person who has a press w/ tools to press out the steering arm pin's. the mechanical press i have access to doesn't seem safe oh i did read for those interested , 86-92 supra's mkiii's have an 8" irs set up and the ring and pinion "should" work in both 4cyl and v6 diff's. and the carrier housing will fit v6 bearings and fit the v6 housing. tho i also read some one had it machined down to 4cyl bearings with success. also the open i have tore apart Was a 4 pinion diff.
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