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Post by fivendime on Nov 28, 2010 9:53:33 GMT -8
Ok, lets do another build thread shall we ;D I just picked up a 96 Dodge 2500 lariat, diesel, 5spd, 4x4, club cab, long bed. It was a one owner bone stock rig but that's what this build thread is for. It even came with the original order form from factory. I have already put a new steering box on, replaced a few U-joints, replaced the old head liner with the new, and put my gauge pod and gauges in last night. Future plans are this. I have a 4" Diamond Eye exhaust sitting in the garage which will go in soon. I'm looking to get a 3k or 4k governor spring kit for it so it can fuel past 2200rpms. BHAF or Cold Air Intake of some sort. Slide fuel plate forward. Dual disk clutch sooner then later. Tuning the AFC. That is about it for now so as soon as the funds come available I will have more to do. Pics to come! Here is a pic of it, and it needs a bath ;D
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Post by bigstuck on Nov 29, 2010 23:30:17 GMT -8
Is it a 12 valve? If so has it had the Killer dowel pin taken care of?
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Post by xjramrod on Nov 30, 2010 20:13:18 GMT -8
I think they switched from 12v to 24valve in 97.
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Post by fivendime on Nov 30, 2010 20:25:54 GMT -8
KDP is on my list, but I have to clean out the garage first so I have room to work on things like that. Tom I still need to borrow that special tool for the rear pinion nut one of these days 1st gen. dodge 12v were from 89-93 2nd gen. dodge 12v were from 94-98 3rd gen. dodge 24v were from 98.5-02 Common rail after that followed by the new 6.7L
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Post by oltmann on Dec 1, 2010 9:56:49 GMT -8
Sounds similar to my truck, good purchase. I was just trying to think of all the little things that I did to mine after purchase.
KDP for sure, also front crank seal while you have the cover off. Check the other timing case bolts while you are in there(should probly pull and loctite, wish I had)
Fuel screen and filter. I keep a spare filter in the truck, had to change a few when I started running bio > b5.
Set the valve lash. (new valve cover gaskets/seals)
3k gov springs helps a ton. I also ground the stock plate to be like a '100' plate. Plugged the waste gate actuator line(mine cracks/opens ~30psi+ only on hard pulls)
That exhaust will be a great addition for sure, and the BHAF from Napa.
In the last year I did a SB Con OFE with the upgraded flywheel. Much nicer clutch than factory, holds my power level fine.
Also, there are upgrade parts(OEM replacements) to convert to a 'T' style steering linkage instead of the 'Y'. If you're interested I can find the part #s
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flipflop
Ok to Drive
attitude is everything
Posts: 178
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Post by flipflop on Dec 4, 2010 10:47:06 GMT -8
I'm in the dark here whats a BHAF and a SB Con OFE?
flip.flop
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Post by fivendime on Dec 4, 2010 11:05:13 GMT -8
I'm in the dark here whats a BHAF and a SB Con OFE? flip.flop I was in the same boat, Diesels have there own world of parts and abbreviations. BHAF is a fancy term for Big Honkin Air Filter. SB is South Bend....company that makes the clutch Con OFE is for the material on the clutch. 1 Performance Organic and 1 Feramic Facing Whereas the SB Con O uses 2 Performance Organic clutch disks and the SB Con FE uses 2 Feramic Facing clutch disks. Say What
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Post by bigstuck on Dec 5, 2010 21:07:14 GMT -8
I'm in the dark here whats a BHAF and a SB Con OFE? flip.flop I was in the same boat, Diesels have there own world of parts and abbreviations. BHAF is a fancy term for Big Honkin Air Filter. SB is South Bend....company that makes the clutch Con OFE is for the material on the clutch. 1 Performance Organic and 1 Feramic Facing Whereas the SB Con O uses 2 Performance Organic clutch disks and the SB Con FE uses 2 Feramic Facing clutch disks. Say What Meh just do a SB Dual disk clucth and never look back!
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Post by fivendime on Dec 5, 2010 22:00:37 GMT -8
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Post by fivendime on Dec 15, 2010 10:58:16 GMT -8
Did another quick project on it the other day. From the factory the 96 Dodge diesel only produced 23-25psi boost due to the waste gate opening up and bleeding off access pressure and feeding it back into the intake via an air line. My boost gauge reads 25psi at wot in 3rd gear which is right on the money. I figured I would do a 10 dollar upgrade to the old coal burner. I got a couple barbed fittings and a needle valve from the local hardware store and went to it. I basically located the boost waste line and tapped into it with the needle valve. Why a needle valve you ask? The stock hx35 turbo can and will spool over its intended MAP reading of efficiency which is pointless because at that point its spinning for no reason. So, you must put a needle valve in to bring the turbo boost up to no more then 35psi. You can essentially fine tune the turbo boost from 25psi to 35psi and anywhere in between by turning the needle valve in our out, then locking it in place with the nut on top. I now have the boost set to 30 psi. I will go higher when I can actually provide fuel for that, but that's a whole other topic. Here are some pics of the project and how simple it is. Here is a pic locating the boost waste line. Second on here is a picture showing you have to cut off some of the hard line to make room for the needle valve. This is showing the completed installation. Simple, took about an hour to mess with.
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Post by bigstuck on Dec 15, 2010 21:31:02 GMT -8
Sweet!! Do you have a EGT guage yet? You will need one of those especially with the tuning and so forth. Ive heard you can modify your stock fuel plate to get a decent amount out of them too.
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Post by fivendime on Dec 17, 2010 14:48:08 GMT -8
Sweet!! Do you have a EGT guage yet? You will need one of those especially with the tuning and so forth. Ive heard you can modify your stock fuel plate to get a decent amount out of them too. Did someone say gauges.....I installed these shortly after I got it. First mod I did as it should be with all diesel's. The fuel plate which is actually the Full Throttle Stop can be modified to a different profile so you can get a bit more fuel out of it. Or you can completely remove it which isn't really ideal. I still have to put a GSK kit in, then it will be time for a plate.....and then a clutch to hold the extra power.
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Post by bchutchens on Dec 17, 2010 17:16:18 GMT -8
You need to do some work on my Ford diesel now, it looks great.
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Post by fivendime on Dec 17, 2010 21:36:39 GMT -8
You need to do some work on my Ford diesel now, it looks great. Lets do it I know where there is a tuner which is a plug-n-play deal for your truck that is for sale. Kayla's Dad has one. I would be glad to help out with the install and gauges, and exhaust, and intake and and and... ;D
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Post by fivendime on Dec 17, 2010 22:41:37 GMT -8
Napa had there filter sale today so I went down to pick up a intake filter for the Dodge. The stock filter flows 140cfm of air. The new one flows over 800cfm. They get there name in the diesel world as BHAF's (big honkin air filters) ;D I took out the old stock box and proceeded to make a heat shield for this one. Most guys just clamp it up and go but I dont want that heated air from the turbo coming in if I can help. I didn't get it completely bent up but I had to use the truck so the heat shield will have to be tweaked a bit, though it does bolt up to the stock air box studs and it fits the underside of the hood well. Here is a shot of it so far. Stock air box unit my new BHAF and heat shield 40 bucks total cost!
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