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Post by lilbluechev on Apr 27, 2012 10:59:10 GMT -8
man i like those front fenders nice job with them
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Post by petee on May 22, 2012 19:34:53 GMT -8
I feel like sharing how I have maintained my sanity while dealing with all this stuff with Hattie. I have stolen an hour or two here and there for some garage time. Here is the over all plan. Finally get the BFG 37” KM2’s on the Jeep. This meant I needed a beefier rear end to handle them. First off I found a smoking deal on a set of 8 lug 17x9 “D” window wheels. That helped me decide on 8lug so Dana 60, 70 or 14 bolts. I found a guy on CL that had an 8lug Dana 44 with 4:10’s and a matching 14 bolt that wanted to trade for a firearm. I just so happened to have one I had no interest in and he wanted it. So from the D44 I got 8 lug outers and brakes, 4:10 gears and low speed carrier that will go into my D44 front that’s already in the Jeep. Plus shafts to make into spares some day a few Tie rods ends that are the same as I am using and a full sized housing that’s way in the way. 14 bolts are huge, so I decided that I needed to shave it. So you get a beef cover from Ruff Stuff and a shave kit from TMR and cut it up. Cut a giant hole in your new to you housing. Then use your housing as a redneck lathe and grind the ring gear down ¼ inch to make it fit. I read online that some guy got nervous about how fast the carrier was spinning and then confirmed the feeling personally. A few ratchet straps made it “feel” a little safer even though it probably wasn’t. I cut 2 ½” out of the long side tube, had a sleeve machined to the ID of the tube and had it pressed together. Then you get the same ground clearance as a Dana 44 with all the benefits of one of the sweetest 1 ton rear ends out there. Now with a set of dually hubs I have a 60 ½” 14 bolt. With the option of going to 64 ½“if I want to go bigger later, by switching the single rear wheel hubs back on. This will match my front D44 width with some 2” spacers (61”front) Torx came through like a champ with a set of stock take off XJ springs. I took the top two XJ leaves and combined them with the bottom 5 from my existing rear packs and voila. Same ride height and 6” of stretch. total wheel base should be about 102" Model 20 back in for mock up, still waiting for a few parts. Should end up around here, gonna need to sharpen the saws all blade. I'll clean it up with a set of stretch corners from Genright or someone and tube flares to match the front later after the fund recover or I sell some other Jeep parts. I love it when things just work out some times. I was planning on welding the rear shackles hangers off the bumper, not a big deal but would have to be done, but….I took the beef hangers I had made before and spun them around and still using the factory holes and the shackle angle looks like this. Sorry. I’m gonna run it and see how it works. Still have plenty to do. Driveline, brake lines, shocks, set pinion angle, set up front gears, new front wheel bearings. But it’s getting there, won’t be done for this weekend but defiantly for this summer. thanks for watching
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Post by petee on Jul 17, 2012 21:19:35 GMT -8
OK ;D I have stolen a few more hours when I could and now that Hattie's and my lovely wife's BBQ are behind us I will be hitting the Jeep even harder till it is ready for the Team Trophy Challenge in Aug. Good news is the list is getting pretty short. 1) Set up frt gear and reassemble front end 2) build rear shock hoops and get shocks 3) Bleed brakes better (Tom ) 4) Drive, Drive, Drive 5) Rebuild the exhaust 6) other stuff I'm forgetting Anyway I drove the Jeep out of the garage yesterday Awesome, then down the street... and back and forth in the drive way. I was very happy. Then I parked it and went inside and feed my baby a bottle. Here is the cut I am going to try to work with. I still have a corner of a Jeep in the rear and that makes me happy. and here are some side shots. So low. So sexy. Love it. don't mind the white lines those were just "maybe cut" paint lines. So the way she sits now she has 101" WB 73" track width at the bulge of the tires and 61" Wheel mounting surface of the axles. 12" of ground clearance at the bottom of the 14 bolt on 37's" @25psi 11 5/8" ground clearance at the bottom of the Dana 44 in the front. (time to shave another 14 for the front for better clearance.) The skid plates @ 16 1/2" and the frame's @ 19" from the ground. later
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Post by petee on Nov 20, 2013 12:09:49 GMT -8
I haven't updated this in a long time. So here go's
In September Doug S, Curtis, my friend Andy and I again participated in the Oregon trophy challenge. We made it allot further then we did in 2012 but not without breaking a few things. (Of course) Between the King of the Hammers YJ we're building and trying to spend time with the family the Jeep has sat in the garage since I presure washed the big chunks off after OTC. Well the stars aligned yesterday, Darel C was out of town working, and the wife and kid are sick so after they went to bed I cracked the door of the garage open and low and behold my Jeep was still out there. I figured it would have packed up and left by now.
The list of damage from Oregon Trophy challenge
Broke the upper shock mount off on the driver side rear. I had the passenger side brake off in the same way last winter on a snow run. I have come to the conclusion that with my narrow track width and big tires the tires are contacting the shock at full stuff and to just gave up. So I need to weld that back on. Ultimately I need to widen the stance all together but that would require a wider front end which we all know how that go’s money, money, money money…money. It will have to wait. Unless someone on Clark county is giving away Chevy Dana 60 front ends. (worth a shot) After we put my front drive line back together at the bottom of airplane hill (again) it died again at the top of firebreak 5 it let loose of the u-joint ears at the t-case and took out the exhaust. On closer inspection the driveline dented the tube right next to the transmission allot and pulled one of the stubs out of the exhaust manifold. Last night I was able to pull the manifold off the motor. Drill the broken stub out and retap the hole. 1 hour spent $100 dollars saved. Not bad. It’s going to cost me $36 in gaskets to put it back together but I’m ok with that. Next is that driveline. I had this “awesome idea” to cut the splined section off the old yoke and use a piece of 2” .120 wall to connect it to an old CJ yoke. I cut all the piece up and got everything dialed in. Looks great and will probably work. But before welding it all together I stopped for the night. Which was probably good cause after sleeping on it I have decided that I don’t have to be that cheap all the time and I will just buy a new yoke I will probably still weld it up and throw it in the back for a trail spare because apparently I don’t get along with front drivelines.
Things to do to try and make at least a few snow runs this year. Deal with the stuff above. Driveline Shock mount Exhaust my fuel cell seems to be weeping fuel from one corner so I need to pull that out and take a look. I’ll take some pictures in a few days…maybe…..
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Post by petee on Feb 22, 2014 23:33:48 GMT -8
The dude came over and helped me get my on board air almost done?!
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Post by petee on Feb 26, 2014 10:30:01 GMT -8
Well on board air works now..cool. Got the rear shock mount welded back on. Exhaust put back together. New fuel cell in and working. last thing in to buy a new yoke for the front d-line and I'm going to install some limiting straps from the frame to the center of the front axle to keep it from "walking" away and pulling the front D-line apart again. Probable a bandaid fix but it will work.
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Post by ljdude on Feb 26, 2014 20:15:35 GMT -8
Well on board air works now..cool. Got the rear shock mount welded back on. Exhaust put back together. New fuel cell in and working. last thing in to buy a new yoke for the front d-line and I'm going to install some limiting straps from the frame to the center of the front axle to keep it from "walking" away and pulling the front D-line apart again. Probable a bandaid fix but it will work. Suspension travel is overrated.
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Post by petee on Feb 27, 2014 6:59:33 GMT -8
Right?! Throttle is the real answer.
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Post by petee on Oct 29, 2014 11:22:29 GMT -8
Picked up a cherokee front cv driveline at pick and pull. Swung by woodys and grabbed a 1310x1350 conversation joint and bam..spare rear driveline on the cheap. I run basically a HD version of the same thing as my main rear driveline. Love it when I plan comes together.
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ExCabSwap
Active Member
Active Member
Posts: 264
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Post by ExCabSwap on Oct 29, 2014 14:07:19 GMT -8
Did you do a pulley driven OBA or something else like ARB? Pics if pulley?
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Post by petee on Oct 29, 2014 20:44:11 GMT -8
It's a stock York that came with the amc 360 from a wagoner. All Daryl and I did was plumb it.
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ExCabSwap
Active Member
Active Member
Posts: 264
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Post by ExCabSwap on Oct 30, 2014 9:18:53 GMT -8
How does your oiling system for the compressor work? do you have it cycle somehow or do you have to keep adding oil?
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Post by petee on Oct 30, 2014 10:28:47 GMT -8
I add. Some sometimes
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ExCabSwap
Active Member
Active Member
Posts: 264
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Post by ExCabSwap on Oct 30, 2014 16:11:52 GMT -8
Thanks! You've convinced me to follow your example..
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ODJeepster
Active Member
Active Member
pack it in, pack it out
Posts: 379
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Post by ODJeepster on Oct 30, 2014 17:15:16 GMT -8
What a great build Paul!!! I'm diggin the modified TJ belly skid. I just picked up a waggy 44 for my C-101, I will follow your lead on that one
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