|
Post by fivendime on Apr 30, 2010 12:05:20 GMT -8
Is it a high pinion non disconnect housing? If so i may be interested... low pinion, and all the brackets were cut off and leaf spring perches were welded on.
|
|
tonka
Ok to Drive
My Heep
Posts: 256
|
Post by tonka on May 1, 2010 6:06:55 GMT -8
ARB, NICE! You will love it!
|
|
|
Post by fivendime on May 1, 2010 8:58:28 GMT -8
Picked up my rear ARB last night. Me and Ryan drove up to Lacey Wa to grab a C8.25 axle with 4.56 gears, ARB, and some sort of axles shafts (dont know what they are yet but they dont look stock) I got a high flow ARB pump that works perfect, 2 ARB switches, relays, solenoids, wiring harness, and the blue air line for 650 bucks, plus 50 bucks in fuel!
So now all I need is 4.56 gears for the front and an install kit for the front, and more blue air line as well as one switch for the front and Ill be set to go!
|
|
|
Post by fivendime on May 1, 2010 12:28:19 GMT -8
OK....I have a problem here. I cant seem to get the pin out to access the C-Clips on my axles. I removed the small Allen bolt holding it in and still no budge? It also looks as if I have to remove the ring gear to get the pin past? This is on the ARB for my rear 8.25 axle Please Help!
|
|
|
Post by fivendime on May 2, 2010 9:28:49 GMT -8
I think I may have found the problem myself. There are 2 pins to remove the guts of the locker. The cross pin bolt is broke off inside and somehow I have to extract it. SHOOOT, this is gonna be fun. Just a shot of the locker. These are the two pins that hold the Cross Pin and Cage Pin...slightly different
|
|
|
Post by fivendime on May 3, 2010 14:49:46 GMT -8
Well, I called ARB and they told me a bunch of stuff. Basically he said you should try a big hammer first. So thats what I did, and it came out ok. The cross pin is toast, especially since I had to cut it up, and I have yet to take a look at the gears. I am really hoping I can use the gears because they are 230 bucks or something like that. Bummed out on the whole deal at this point. I could be in this thing another 300 bucks easy. If anyone has any hookups with ARB or knows someone that can take care of me that would be awesome. Here is a picture of it out, finally. I still have to drive out the pin all the way and pull the gears to see if I can use them.
|
|
|
Post by fivendime on May 3, 2010 15:30:17 GMT -8
Just pulled the pin out completely. I noticed that one of the gears has a burr inside where the pin goes through, so my guess is that I will need gears and a pin. I did however find that its a 29 spline which is a plus, but on the flip side I tried to remove the ring gear and 2 bolts broke off so I stopped there and am waiting further instruction of how to get them off without breaking them....anyone?
|
|
shortbus
Charter Member
Every great day ends in POO!
Posts: 254
|
Post by shortbus on May 3, 2010 16:04:26 GMT -8
heat the bolts they may have locktite on them
|
|
|
Post by fivendime on May 3, 2010 16:32:09 GMT -8
heat the bolts they may have locktite on them I heated it up and still the same thing. I was using map gas so It wasnt super hot but I held it on there for like 2 min and went right to the impact and snap....same thing. Really thinking about snapping all of them off and just getting new gears at this point I've had it. Figured it out Left Hand Threads
|
|
|
Post by ljdude on May 3, 2010 18:13:11 GMT -8
happens to the best of us!
|
|
|
Post by fivendime on Jun 18, 2010 11:11:20 GMT -8
I have some issues.....no not those issues ;D I am trying to find out what the heck to do with my gearing situation here. I was going to run 4.56 gears but after doing a bit of reading most guys are using 4.88's with 35" tires. So now Im in a pickle, well sort of. I have a set of 4.56 gears now for the rear that came with an axle I bought. I need to buy the front set which is 130 bucks or so. My thoughts are this. I could ditch the 4.56 set and go for 4.88's but then I have to spend more money......quite a bit more. A front and rear set would cost me around 500 bucks shipped to my door. I'm already in the hole now for 370 bucks more. My other problem is that I still have to get a SYE kit for my transfer case and a new rear drive line. So my other thought was to just keep the 3.55 gears in it now put the lockers in for now and then buy a Atlas 4 speed 5.14 to 1 transfer case. I can choose my lower gears from them so I could just adjust for the 3.55's or even go with the 4.56's and still go with an atlas 4 spd. The bonus would be that I dont have to spend tons of cash on a good SYE kit for my transfer case now, I would also have a much much better t-case and I would also have more select ability for gears....such as a 2wd low which I would love to have, as well as front dig ability. OH what shall I do.......please tell me cause right now I am fumbling around to figure it out.
|
|
TORX
Ok to Drive
Posts: 294
|
Post by TORX on Jun 18, 2010 11:54:55 GMT -8
4.56's or 4.88's will work fine for you. I honestly wouldn't go the Atlas route, because no matter what you're going to need steeper gears in the diffs. Daily driving on 35's with 3.55s will destroy your mileage, and really heat up the tranny. I would consider looking at an Atlas later on down the road after gears and lockers. I run 4.88's and I like the combo for daily driving (17mpg). If I had the option to go deeper, I would. As far as the SYE goes, I suggest going with a full SYE and not a hack an tap (unless you have the 242). I run a lengthened front drive line with mine, and haven't had any issues (broke some pinion yokes, but never a drive line). I would expect to pay $200 for the SYE, and maybe $40 for a stock front auto drive line (direct swap into your). Then if you wanted you could always have a stouter drive line built at a later time too (Driveline Tech in Gresham ).
|
|
|
Post by m38crawler on Jun 27, 2010 14:53:31 GMT -8
The 4 speed Atlas is out of the questions because they stop producing them till they find away to fix some issue in them. Save the money you would put in the Atlas and just by a SYE kit for the 242. I would just run the 4.56's. That puts you close to what the stock ratio to tire size. Plus aren't the 4.56's slightly stronger then the 4.88's? Also $500 for new gears sounds a lot better then over $3000 for a transfer-case...
|
|
|
Post by fivendime on Jun 28, 2010 20:12:26 GMT -8
Thanks for the tips. I am going to postpone the Atlas for now. I am also going to run 4.88's cause with the new 35's it should be closer to stock then 4.56's. I found a smoking deal on Naxja since Im a member now ;D Im getting both sets of Nitro Gears 4.88 ring and pinions for 300 shipped to my doorstep. Basic install kits are 62 shipped for both front and rear! So I am going to go that route for now. I also found a rear CV drive line that will work without a slip yolk kit on my 242, guys called Adams Drive Line on Ebay and there about 280 bucks, and supposed to be very durable. So in the mean time I have tackled some other issues. I am putting in some frame strengtheners and integrating them into my rock sliders. I am also ditching the old design of my sliders and doing something different due to them not being strong enough. I have come up with a simple fix for now that should look good and be strong. I am going to weld in a hefty piece of round tube in the lower corner to make them more rigid. Pics later since I have no camera at the moment! Well that's it so far, more to come!
EDIT: after shopping steel prices I am just going to buy some and save myself the headache.
|
|
|
Post by fivendime on Jul 8, 2010 12:21:23 GMT -8
I'm going to be installing or trying to install my first set of gears and locker into my XJ this Sunday. I will be doing the rear end first since I can pull that one out and do it on the table. I have all the tools and parts to go forward with it. I need them done before our Evans Creek Run up north!
|
|