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Post by fivendime on Aug 16, 2010 20:38:34 GMT -8
I went up with the Naxja crew for a TSF run this last Saturday. It was going to be my test day for all the new stuff I had put on. Test I did, and I also managed to rip a front brake line off and bend the heck out of my drag link on the steering. So no I am upgrading to better and stronger for both. I went to tubes and hoses today to have them custom make me a set of "hard to break" break lines. They turned out great and look and feel much stronger then the last ones. I am also fighting with which kit to get for steering on my XJ now that it will need to be re-done. I am looking at this kit from JCR as well as the Ballistic Fab kit. I am leaning to the Ballistic kit. If anyone has any better ideas for my steering let me know! I haven't done too much research on this stuff yet. JCR Kit www.jcroffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=1TNSTOTK&Category_Code=S6Here is a pic of the new fancy break lines
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Post by fivendime on Aug 17, 2010 15:19:06 GMT -8
Still fighting with my brakes. I cant seem to get them to seal good. I have re-flared the ends multiple times. I got the drivers side to seal but the passenger side is still seeping a little. I will tackle that later. I decided to mock up my front bumper today so I can get it ready for powder coat. I still need to find a place for my fog lights and weld some tabs on. I dont want to block the lights or radiator an any way I can. I think they will go on each side just in front of the winch. Here is a shot of it as it sits right now.
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Post by fivendime on Aug 18, 2010 14:57:48 GMT -8
Ok, I have been sitting here on this dang computer for about 4 hours straight reading and studying the ins and outs of each aftermarket Heavy Duty steering kit for my XJ. My mind is now mush and I need some help. I have narrowed it down to a few things and kits. I know I could do this simply for about 190 bucks if I do an upgraded heavier links and TRE's (tie rod ends) under the knuckle but I figured if I'm doing it I had better just upgrade it as best as possible and never look back. So I have decided to at the very least go OTK (over the knuckle) even though it may cost me more time in relocating brackets and such. Here are my options. Option A: Ballistic Fabrications 1 ton OTK kit. Price $260+shipping www.ballisticfabrication.com/Steering-Kit-Chevy-Tie-Rod-Ends_p_1338.htmlOption B: Ballistic Fabrications 1 ton OTK kit BUT I order the kit with an extra 12" to the drag link and tie rod so I can bend them to clear the brackets that would otherwise need to be removed. Price $285+shipping Option C: Currie Currectlync bolt on kit. Price $400 HUGE downfall with the Currie setup is it must be mounted UTK (under the knuckle www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/Product569.aspx?id=1219Option D: ORO U-Turn bolt on TRUE crossover steering kit. Price $550 The best thing about this kit is its all bolt on with large 1 ton tie rod ends along with the upgrade of crossover style steering to eliminate the Y-link setup from stock. Only downfall it has is that its still under the knuckle but in its case it does raise it about 3/4" on the tie rod and over 3" on the drag link making the geometry far better then any steering above. Other downfall is price but what the heck I guess if I only have to do it once and its a good setup. This kit also works on the D44 so I have that option when and if I upgrade. This is the best link to show pics and description, but I found it for $550 shipped to my door. motionoffroad.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=383Comments and feedback are Greatly appreciated! Also does anyone know where I can get a good price on some 1.5" OD thick wall (over .25") DOM For my steering?
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Post by bigstuck on Aug 18, 2010 16:39:30 GMT -8
Joey I carry 1.5" DOM in .250 wall. call me
Also DO NOT buy anything that has been welded together. It is not DOT approved. Anything in the linkage system welded together makes a point of failure. And IF for some reason you it were to break while driving and injure you could be held liable.
I build kits at the shop for this application with the large 7/8th GM rod ends. If you have seen the white rubicon that we built it runs this linkage with no issues. It can be built different ways. All 1.250x .313 wall DOM which for you may be a bit over kill. 1.250x.250 wall complete or do the may tie rod in heavy and do the drag link in .250 wall. Your choice. If you want to step down to the GM 3/4" rod ends we can do that as well. If you bring me your knuckles and pitman arm Ill ream them for with the purchase of the setup.
All of our steering setups the tubing is drilled and tapped for maximum strength.
call me and ill shoot you some prices and get you taken care of.
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Post by fivendime on Aug 19, 2010 7:41:56 GMT -8
call me and ill shoot you some prices and get you taken care of. Thanks for the heads up on the welding thing. I did not know this. I think I will drive it down there to get a quote from you guys today. Good thing we have great weatherman around here. I woke up to sprinkles which turn into rain ya know.....right on my new bare steel bumper. So there I am waking up the neighbors with my wrench noises banging on steel.....good grief.
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Post by iceman on Aug 19, 2010 8:41:28 GMT -8
I might have some of the DOM let over from the Nissan. Also I really like that last kit but the down fall is the price. It looks like a well designed and thought through kit. I also like deleting the Y link. Just my 2 cents!
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Post by fivendime on Aug 20, 2010 16:00:14 GMT -8
Well i have narrowed it down to 2 selections for steering one not being on the first list.
A: ORO U-turn kit
B: Iron Rock OTK kit.
simple as that....tell me what to do LOL
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Post by bigstuck on Aug 21, 2010 12:12:26 GMT -8
ORU u turn kit if It were my choice. Unless you plan to carry spare heims with you all the time. Usually the kits built with the TRE are an off the shelf part that can be bought anywhere. (as long as the counter guy can read a spec book) if you break one in the country and dont have a spare.
Heims dont last nearly the amount of time that a TRE does. They may be stronger but will wear quicker and they arent serviceable.
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Post by xtrmtj on Aug 21, 2010 13:38:47 GMT -8
Yeah, but Heims are SeXy !
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Post by fivendime on Aug 21, 2010 21:33:59 GMT -8
Went with sexy ;D
God works in mysterious ways. I was headed to Salem to visit my grandma today and just happened to check a post I had about this same decision on Naxja just before I left. Low and behold a guy says he has a used non wheeled kit that was basically new that he had pulled of his rig to make it stock again. I called him up and he told me he would sell it for 150 to 175 bucks....so I said 160 cool and he said deal. So I swung by and grabbed the steering kit along with some extra grade 8 bolts he had laying around, 4 stickers from IRO and a 15 dollar can of dry graphite lube for the joints. Not to mention it has the 20 dollar upgraded hardware so new the kit is 370 without shipping. I'm super happy, all I have to do now is keep them clean and lubed which if you know me keeping it clean is no issue...and lubed well that's what the can of graphite is for ;D
I also plan on buying a complete new set of rod ends to replace the ones on there now, and use the ones on there now as trial spares.
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Post by fivendime on Aug 26, 2010 20:48:49 GMT -8
Well one more thing has been upgraded on the XJ. Steering! I swapped out the stock bent steering for some beef from Iron Rock Offroad. The only thing I really had to do to make it a non bolt in kit was to drill out my knuckles and pitman arm to accommodate the 5/8" bolts that came with it. Other then that it went in great! I still have to do the final torque down with some red locktite but I wanted to get it installed and working first. So here are some pics! A comparison from the stock mess to some cold rolled goodness! One minute I have no steering, next I do ;D
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Post by fivendime on Aug 30, 2010 17:17:01 GMT -8
Today's update. I installed my SYE kit and CV driveline, greased up all the zerks, adjusted the E-Brake and moved the crossmember up because of the new driveline. Also drilled and tapped my bumper for my KC lights so its ready for the powder coat guy to do his magic.
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Post by bigstuck on Aug 31, 2010 20:12:22 GMT -8
Looks good Joey. I would have preffered a HD SYE kit over that one but if it stays just a light wheeler it should be ok.
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Post by fivendime on Sept 1, 2010 14:07:50 GMT -8
Looks good Joey. I would have preffered a HD SYE kit over that one but if it stays just a light wheeler it should be ok. I would have too, but in my opinion this transfercase isn't worth dumping 500 bucks into and have it still be mostly in stock form. Eventually I plan to replace it with an atlas or similar style unit. I think this type of SYE kit goes bad because of the installers mistakes not the unit itself in most cases since it can be problems if the shaft isn't cut, drilled and tapped straight and perfect. I'm just glad I have no more driveline vibes. I need a set of degree shims for it now but one thing at a time.
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Post by bigstuck on Sept 1, 2010 22:19:54 GMT -8
well just swing on by when you need i have 4,6 and 8 degrees in stock in the steel bolt in shims you dont have to worry about cracking and breaking.
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