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Post by iceman on Sept 18, 2009 11:02:22 GMT -8
Jon oltmann is right look for the slip in the drive line. If the slip is in the t-case then it dosn't have an sye kit. The reason for the sye kit is to put the slip in the drive line becuase you get a longer spline when you do that. If the slip was in the t-case then you would have very little spline making it weeker and less travel before the drive line comes out the the case. Just my two sence. Or is that one I don't know! LMAO
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Post by Jon on Sept 18, 2009 16:30:21 GMT -8
Jon, snap a few photos of the area in question (SYE). You should start a new thread for the build now that you have the Jeep! I'm thinking no SYE here. So thats another thing for the list.... As soon as I get some stuff to build I'll probably start a build thread. Right now I dont have anything to build ;D I was going to put the bikini top on today and then saw it was suppose to rain tonight.
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Post by fivendime on Sept 18, 2009 16:55:06 GMT -8
YEP no SYE kit there. And wash that filty thing
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shortbus
Charter Member
Every great day ends in POO!
Posts: 254
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Post by shortbus on Sept 18, 2009 20:52:38 GMT -8
Jon we know you know that you are not supposed to take that thing anywere to get that much mud. What have you been doin? lol
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Post by Jon on Sept 18, 2009 20:57:35 GMT -8
It looks pretty clean compared to the bottom of the FJ I'll fix that when I begin customizing the paint with the custom TSF pin striping.
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Post by Jon on Sept 20, 2009 11:07:27 GMT -8
OK this Jeep is now making me want to punch babies. The driveline vibration is now getting worse. I'd like to believe that its just because now I know about it, but it just seems to be getting worse. I had seen a NP231 with SYE and CV driveshaft at Wranglerbarn for 499, and was just waiting for Cody to get back to me, but it sold. So now I have this thing I honestly dont even think I should drive at this point until I get this fixed. I'd like to go kick the sales guy in the head for telling me it was just the tires. He told me he had sold jeeps for 10 years, so I am sure he must have known it was the lack of a SYE. Anyway - Advanced Adapters has a SYE kit and drive shaft for 499 so I guess I'll go that route. Theres a NP231 with a SYE for sale on PNWJEEP but I'd still need the shaft so.... the AA kit seems the better way to go. Now I Just need to sell my kidneys to pay for all this stuff to make my jeep driveable. This pretty much pushes all my plans for this thing out by a month and then with Christmas coming quick, probably out two. GRRRRR.... On the good news side, I traded my winch cable to my neighbor for a set of rocker guards. They dont have a bar on them, so eventually I'll upgrade them but these should work for now. He also made me a deal on a Poison Spyder heavy duty tie rod system, so thats cool. I've got a guy on his way to buy my old FJ sway bar that I never used. So thats cool.... Lockers seem so far away now....
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Post by Jon on Sept 20, 2009 11:14:10 GMT -8
I noticed on the build sheet said that it has 3.73 gears. I would suggest, when you get your lockers you change those to a least 4.10 or 4.56 gears if you plan on running 33"- 35" tires. I would also suggest a SYE kit if you don't have one. It is necessary for proper articulation. Call me for more details. So gears seem cheap compared to everything else I am looking at, making me think I am missing something here. ;D Its not just as simple as getting a new ring and pinion is it? What else do I need, I am trying to figure out how much more money I have to through into it. I'm also reading that gearing is something you have to have done by a shop. Even the most hardest of hard core peoples seem to say get a shop to do it. Soooo.... Who does your gearing? I'll get Leonards thoughts when he calls as well...
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Post by racincowboy on Sept 20, 2009 17:40:57 GMT -8
I would assume you are right on the vibration it is a common problem with lifts. Anyhow if you need a good gear guy that is reasonable I have one. He does all my gear work including rebuilding trannies and transfer cases in my race truck and everything I own for that matter. He works from home has no overhead does not advertise and has more work then he can handle most of the time. He used to work at six states then went out on his own more then 12 years ago. If you want his name and number give me a buzz.
He also keeps a good stock of used parts around as well. He only does things that need to be done and will give you all the options and is spot on his quotes usually less then he quotes. He also has a "cash" discount program.
He changed my gears in my chevy front and rear plus a whole new 1 ton rearend all brand new bearings brakes the works. He also changed out the front stub axles to 8 lug and new warn premium hubs for 975 total for all that with the cash discount. Everyone else I talked to wanted 550 minimum for just the rearend not even rebuilt or the right gears I needed. That was about 7 years ago as well.
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Wyldman
Active Member
Safety & Education Chairman
IXOYE
Posts: 643
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Post by Wyldman on Sept 20, 2009 18:30:32 GMT -8
Hey Jon, Just a thought...
As you build this rig, remember what I said "What are you going to use the vehicle for?" Because all the parts you have thought about upgrading come in two different types. Stock/OEM or after market which should be a lot stronger. For example... You can buy stock gears or a "Yukon" set of gears which are a lot stronger. A drive shaft can be made as strong as you want it.
I realize that the more custom you make anything the more money you spend, but it comes with peace of mind that it will be harder to break. I'm not trying to sway you either direction. I'm just bringing this to your attention. I hope this doesn't confuse you. I'm always a phone call away.
On a different note: I have a set of 4.56 ring and pinion Yukon gears for a Dana 30 front end to sale if your interested. That would get you started. Call me for more info.
Wyldman
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Wyldman
Active Member
Safety & Education Chairman
IXOYE
Posts: 643
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Post by Wyldman on Sept 20, 2009 18:31:18 GMT -8
Hey Jon, To answer your question, yes you can just change the ring and pinion gears in the front and rear ends.
Just a thought...
As you build this rig, remember what I said "What are you going to use the vehicle for?" Because all the parts you have thought about upgrading come in two different types. Stock/OEM or after market which should be a lot stronger. For example... You can buy stock gears or a "Yukon" set of gears which are a lot stronger. A drive shaft can be made as strong as you want it.
I realize that the more custom you make anything the more money you spend, but it comes with peace of mind that it will be harder to break. I'm not trying to sway you either direction. I'm just bringing this to your attention. I hope this doesn't confuse you. I'm always a phone call away.
On a different note: I have a set of 4.56 ring and pinion Yukon gears for a Dana 30 front end to sale if your interested. That would get you started. Call me for more info.
Wyldman
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Post by Jon on Sept 20, 2009 19:03:19 GMT -8
thanks guys! racincowboy - yep ill need be needing that guys # eventually. Let me get over this sye drive shaft thingy though.
Wyldman - those words haunt me every day! But I think I figured it out. I want this to be a KOH, Ultra 4 BITD class, rock crawling, dirt track racing, dune jumping, mall crawling, daily driver.
just kidding.... I've got a vision. and I'm thinking about it every day. basically, someday, this will become an updated version of my FJ 40. part crawler, part expedition rig.
I may be interested in those gears. I gotta get over this driveshaft thingy and figure out what else I need immediately. I was thinking of 4.88, thoughts? I'm gonna stick with these 33s for a bit, but eventually want 35s for some reason. right now though I just want to get rid of the shakes and hit a trail in this thing! hahahaha
thanks again for all the info folks, its helpful and I apologize for all my newb fratic questions!!!
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popeye
Winch Cable Monkey
Posts: 44
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Post by popeye on Sept 20, 2009 20:05:59 GMT -8
have you had your tires balanced? my crew cab had a bad vibration on the front end to the point i would get a nasty death wobble at times got the tires balanced it was better. have you checked the u-joints to make sure they are good? for a temp fix you could always use a degree shim i wouldnt keep it but for a temp fix till you can get the sye kit.
as wyldeman stated you need to have an idea of what you want to use the jeep for than you can build it in that direction
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Post by Jon on Sept 21, 2009 6:49:44 GMT -8
Thanks, but I doubt it's an allignment issue. The vibration occurs when giving it gas. Put the clutch in and its smooth sailing. Guess it could be the U joints, but will check that out when I get my SYE and new shaft.
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beatcj
Ok to Drive
Flat out LAZY...
Posts: 169
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Post by beatcj on Sept 21, 2009 8:56:34 GMT -8
Obviously, you need the SYE, but if you can't go there yet, I would really look at the joints and balancing the tires. Also, depending on geometry, the T-case drop can cause vibration. With a standard U-joint shaft, the portions of the shaft outside of the U-joints have to be parallel to work correctly, in this case the crankshaft to t-case output should be parallel with the rear axle pinion shaft. Tom Woods website has a better explanation in the Tech section. www.4xshaft.com/driveline101.html Quality joints in good condition can help minimize the problem. If the t-case drop makes the two line converge, it can create problems. As for lockers, I just put an Aussie in the AMC 20 rear axle in my CJ, about 1/4 the cost of an ARB installed. Sure, it does affect the street handling, but for what I use MY jeep for, I'm happy with it. As for gearing, remember, changing your gears too low will affect how enjoyable it is to drive on long trips. 4.88s will raise your freeway RPMs 31% over your 3.73s. That will really echo when you're buzzing down the road. Swapping your T-case gears will only affect RPMs when you are in low range, and swapping from a 2.72 low range to a 4:1 low range would be the equivalent of swapping to 5.48 ring and pinions (not even available). Of course, I don't know how you plan on using it, just tossing out food for thought. Oh yeah, one last thought. Which rear end do you have? I believe most TJ's came with a Dana 35 rear axle. It has a history of issues. I know many people upgrade this axle, so you may want to at least research it before you decide to invest any money in it.
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Post by Jon on Sept 21, 2009 15:36:49 GMT -8
Thanks again for the knowledge. Some good stuff to chew on. I really don't think its the tires. I've had bad alignments and tires out of balance, this just doesn't seem to feel like that. Seems to be getting worse though, so its jumped to the top of the list to fix. Maybe its not getting worse, but its getting annoying thats for sure. Even Bobbi noticed it was rougher yesterday. I'll be daily driving this for the foreseeable future. Not having a selectable locker makes me nervous for that. What are your thoughts? Am I just being paranoid? I like the idea of swapping the gears in my tcase, it seems like a good idea. I'll be driving it anywhere I go, and have been known to have a heavy foot. I'm aiming for something that can run some of the tougher trails at TSF that I couldn't run in the FJ Cruiser, but yet something that I can still enjoy for camping trips and daily driving. Crawler / Expedition rig / DD. I know these all kinda point in different directions, so a sort of compromise among the three would be nice. I've got the Dana 44 in the rear and a Dana 30 upfront. So far thats the best thing I have going for me. That and the color, really like the color, and a hard top... so thats cool or uhmmm warm I guess I should say. I'm thinking right about now the name for this thing should be paperweight, cause thats about all it's doing right now. Oh well, onward and upward. Jeep goes to Leonard's for a SYE, CV drive shaft and rear adjustable upper control arms on 9/28. I priced this out at 4 different shops, and all came in at the same price. I have always heard good stuff about Leonard, seen Wyldman's jeep, and ALMOST had Leonard do my FJ Cruisers lift. I went with Metal Tech as they also made the bumpers and sliders so it made sense to just do it all there. Anyway, once its there I'll have him look it over and tell me what else is wrong. Hopefully (Please Lord! Please let this be it! :prayingjon:), this will solve my problems so I can begin looking at upgrading this thing. If theres nothing else wrong, then I'll probably be making another appointment for him to put in the ARB and compressor. Which leads back to gearing... Looking at ARB's specs, it looks like they make lockers that are for 3.73 and down, or 3.92 and up. Given this I think it makes sense to step up in gears at the same time as the ARB's. Hmmmm, more things to ponder. I'm starting a pile of goodies. Rocker guards that I traded my winch cable for. Poison Spyder HD Steering kit [glow=red,2,300]ooooh Spyder![/glow] Put the Bikini Top on last night. Racincowboy and Shortbus where right, this thing is a pain to put on at first. Hope it gets easier as it gets stretched out a bit. Hopefully I'll hear from 4 Wheel Parts tomorrow about my bumper, so I can get that and my winch on. If its going to be a paper weight I want to make sure its a tough looking paper weight! ;D
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