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Post by mudmaddness1972 on Dec 4, 2009 15:24:25 GMT -8
looking to meet some new poeple with 4x4 ..i am builting a 78 3/4 ton suburban w/427 th400 getting ready for some snow runs ..thanks dave for the winch
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Wyldman
Active Member
Safety & Education Chairman
IXOYE
Posts: 643
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Post by Wyldman on Dec 4, 2009 15:46:29 GMT -8
Welcome to the Forum. We always like new people with an itching to get dirty!!! Tell us a little about yourself and how you heard of us. Look forward to meeting you on the trails and/or in one of our meetings.
Wyldman (aka Douglas)
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Post by mudmaddness1972 on Dec 4, 2009 17:55:15 GMT -8
i hear from dave one of your members..i am a machanic ..i have 5 kids (so that why i have a suburban ..)my burb is going to have a 427bbc th400 for now a np203 with a part time kit rear axle will have a locker (14 bolt) front will open untell i find a dana60..right now iam installing a 8in skyjacker lift ..going to run 37 to 39's for tire .i use to have a big 77 chevy 3/4 with 1 ton running gear had a 454th400 np205 and locker in the rear and 39.5 boggers all around..
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Post by windturbine1 on Dec 4, 2009 18:55:25 GMT -8
hey mud i to have a burb. i have 4 kids. im planning a big lock swap as well along with 38in swampers and boggers. im going to stick with the 1/2 ton axles and just upgrade them with chromoly shafts that way i can keep the extra ground clearance and less weight of the 1 ton stuff. its nice to know someone else has a burb too.
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Post by hootie on Dec 4, 2009 19:54:22 GMT -8
welcome Chris... Didn't take you long to get on here..
Glad to see the Burbs have found each other.
Keep on the forum and come see everyone someplace soon.
Dave.
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Post by mudmaddness1972 on Dec 5, 2009 15:55:12 GMT -8
hey mud i to have a burb. i have 4 kids. im planning a big lock swap as well along with 38in swampers and boggers. im going to stick with the 1/2 ton axles and just upgrade them with chromoly shafts that way i can keep the extra ground clearance and less weight of the 1 ton stuff. its nice to know someone else has a burb too. for how much it cost for crome moly shafts i would just get a 3/4 ton doner put 3/4 running gear ..in the long run be way cheaper....chris
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Post by windturbine1 on Dec 5, 2009 18:05:31 GMT -8
you said in your post about a dana 60 front. well they range between 1000 -2000 depending on how its set up. the chromoly shaft upgrade cwith u-joints is about 1100. a 14 bolt will run between 100-500 or more depending on how its set up. chromoly upgrade about 220. but heres the thing. do i need to spend all that money for a dana 60 when i may not need one. i dont know if my front end will hold up under 38 swampers or not. the axle upgrade can be done one piece at a time. not all at once to buy a dana 60. i ran 44s on my dodge ramcharger with the stock front end with 3/4 ton outer ends and all i broke was driveline u-joints. everyone said i needed a dana 60. i didnt. i feel that the axle upgrade is a better option.
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Post by mudmaddness1972 on Dec 5, 2009 18:25:39 GMT -8
i ran 40in wih stock dana 44s...but for the rear end i would put a 14bolt and keep the 10 bolt front ..i been thinking about use the same shaft too in the front ..but the week link is the ring and pinon on the rear 10 bolt....the only time i see the axle brake is with jumping..chris
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Post by mudmaddness1972 on Dec 5, 2009 18:28:14 GMT -8
here's a thought go and get a 12bolt
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Post by windturbine1 on Dec 5, 2009 19:43:25 GMT -8
you are right about the ring and pinion. a 12 bolt is a good option. thank you for the advice. my only thought with keeping the stock axles were the extra ground clearance and less weight. but i tend to have a very heavy foot sometimes when im wheeling so i may have to upgrade to the the 14 bolt in the rear at least. only time will tell. whats your opinion on arb air lockers for the burb?
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Post by toyrocs on Dec 6, 2009 8:55:25 GMT -8
Windturbine1: If your worried about the weight of the the Dana 60 in the front & the 14 bolt in the year--- your worries are over. The burb weighs so much that I don't think the weight of the bigger axles will make much difference from sinking in the snow . Really, just go with the Dana 60/14 bolt . If you will be keeping this rig, you will save money & broken parts frustration over the long haul with the dana 60/ 14b! 38" tires on a heavy rig with occasional use of the go pedal with Dana 44/ 12 bolt your asking for trouble. For extra axle housing clearance you can trim .70" off the bottom of the 14 bolt pumpkin lip with a sawsall with no other mods!!! A) The key to good snow wheeling is some sort of locker front & rear-- especially a controllable one ( like an ARB) in the front axle and any type locker in the rear . I avoid the Detroit lockers due to if an axle breaks the shock load during the axle break has been known ( rarely) to destroy the locker it's self. B) Flotation ,Flotation, Flotation. The key here is weight per square inch of tire contact with the snow. This is why low tire air pressures help so much in the snow. The increase in the contact patch will allow the tires to stay on top of the snow. With a heavy rig like yours I would recommend the largest tire you can fit & still be legal + the rig be usable for daily driving. When selecting a snow tire look for a pliable side wall so the tire shape can easily change when aired down. For example do not use boggers-- these have very stiff side walls & are terrible in the snow. C) Select a tire that has many small gripping edges. These edges will bite the snow better instead of spinning. Another example of what NOT to use is swamper's. These type of tires have just a few large lugs with few gripping edges. D) Rim selection 1) Double bead locks will always be the best choice. a) super low tire pressures with no worries of losing a bead(s) is what these are all about. 2) Rim width with what ever tire you select. a) if your using bead locks keep the tire side wall vertical to better support the side wall. b) if using standard rims, use a rim width that will be smaller than the tire contact patch width. For example if using a 12.50" wide tire, use a 8" wide rim instead of a 10" wide rim. The increase side wall angle will help keep the the tire bead on at the lower tire pressures. 3) Do not use 16.5" diameter rims as these do not have a safety bead to help retain the bead. ( exception: double bead locks can use this size with no worries). I personally like the military hummer wheels ( double bead lock) 16.5 x 8.75. these are dot approved, have the best clamping & sealing design (IMO) & are the easiest to install / maintain. They are also the least expensive double bead lock -- even after re centering the back space. BTW if you ever decide to sell the burb, you can remove the 60/14b axles & reinstall the oem axles just before you sell it! ;D Toyrocs
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Post by windturbine1 on Dec 6, 2009 12:30:42 GMT -8
you make some good points toyrocs. im still in the planning stages of the build. all of this advice is greatly appreciated. im still collecting information and trying to determine the best way to go. after the snow run i went on last weekend im thinking about running ARBs. as far as tires go i havent made a definite choice yet.
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tonka
Ok to Drive
My Heep
Posts: 256
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Post by tonka on Dec 6, 2009 13:21:33 GMT -8
If you install alloy axles in a 10 bolt your wasting money. you can buy a 14b out of a newer truck with the same 6 bolt pattern. I bought one with 4.10 gears and a gov.lock for $120. at U pull it. for the front if your real easy on the throttle a 44 with alloys will work but the 10 bolts are junk! I have seen them break with no abuse If you want big tires, on the truck, the 10bolts will not work you will be broken all the time.
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Post by windturbine1 on Dec 6, 2009 13:54:32 GMT -8
that would work as well. but the axles are the least of my problems with it right now. i cant get it ti run after the fire last week. but that rear end will work.
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