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Post by fivendime on Jan 21, 2010 20:27:46 GMT -8
This will be the thread for my build on my XJ, and anything I may do to it to upgrade it for the trails. I received my new Iron Rock 6.5" Critical Path Long Arm kit today....OVERJOYED! I am going to get a profile shot so I can compare the progress over time. Look for pics here soon!
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Post by themooses on Jan 21, 2010 22:28:23 GMT -8
Are you going to build up your 96? Or do you have another one? I don't remember.
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TORX
Ok to Drive
Posts: 294
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Post by TORX on Jan 21, 2010 22:54:27 GMT -8
Sweet!
Are you shooting to have it installed by the 30th?
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Post by Jon on Jan 22, 2010 16:27:23 GMT -8
This will be the thread for my build on my XJ, and anything I may do to it to upgrade it for the trails. I received my new Iron Rock 6.5" Critical Path Long Arm kit today....OVERJOYED! I am going to get a profile shot so I can compare the progress over time. Look for pics here soon! <<< taps foot impatiently>>> define soon? ;D Congrats on the new addition to the XJ. Looking forward to watching the build!
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Post by fivendime on Jan 24, 2010 12:10:58 GMT -8
Here are some pictures. All the parts came out good and the new ones went back in just fine. All thats left with the back is to bleed the brakes. I will have to admit I may need some larger tires....or at least wider ones, my wife just mumbled somethin.......I wonder what it was ;D This is its height before the lift...my trust little door welcome bear was the measurement for size of before and after. This was close...I had to air down to get in, not gonna be that easy on the way out. Pulled the shocks to compare and replace. The old shocks were still in great condition. I think they only have about 10K on them if that. Pulling the springs and shackles. The old shackles looked stronger then the new ones. The black ones are from the new lift. Again the parts that are coming off are in perfect condition which is nice for re-sale. Here is the difference with the springs. The military style berlin eyes for the front should work awesome. I may use the add-a-leaf if the XJ sags when I tow my little trailer, but I will need new U-Bolts. Everything has gone together great so far. I greased the heck out of stuff and put a fair amount of anti-seize on the leaf spring mounting bolts since the nut is welded inside the frame rails. Put my new stainless line on the back so bleeding the brakes is all that's left for the back end. NOW for the fun part...the front
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Post by fivendime on Jan 26, 2010 20:27:01 GMT -8
As you can see I dont sit too long with a project. They tend to get done fairly quick, faster then I load pictures cause I am lazy with that sometimes. Oh my gosh did I have fun with this one. I fought my Y-arm for like 2 hours. The 3 piece Cross-member is freaking sweet, its made so I can leave my long arms attached to the unibody and be able to remove the center section so I can get my transmission or transfer case out! Also another design that's sweet is the Caster adjuster on the top of my Y-arm. The rest of the front was easy as pie. The other arm took like 10 minutes. the shocks, springs, track bar bracket, track bar, and brake lines went in perfect. I haven't seen it on my tires yet but I imagine its going to be up there. I mocked up the back in the shop and it sits 3" higher then before I hope I dont tip over, knock on wood. Its now a 3-link setup in the front since I dont have the passenger side upper arm. Here it is before all the new stuff. This is the 3-piece cross member I was talking about and a shot of it mounted up. Side by side comparison to the stock track bar bracket compared to the new one which is much stronger. This is how the Y-arm looks and you can see the Caster adjuster on the top of the arm. Here is a shot of the springs old and new. Sitting on stock jeep wheels and tires, gives you an idea of how much lift it is from stock. 33's will fit perfect with no fender cutting. It also has plenty of room for 35's with some cutting.
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Post by fivendime on Jan 29, 2010 19:32:34 GMT -8
I finally got over the shock of a 400 buck alignment and brake flush....and gathered my senses. I snapped this photo on my phone a day ago. It can go further but the wall wasn't getting higher so I stopped.
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Post by fivendime on Feb 6, 2010 15:05:51 GMT -8
I have yet to hook up my sway bar. It actually drives very good without it, way better then the short arm without a bar. I have been pondering an idea for a slip style sway bar link. One that would slip in and out so you have 2 times the distance. I have never seen one so I think I'm going to make it. It would basically be a limiting device at full articulation, or I could take it off completely. I will show pics later of what I want to do.
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Post by fivendime on Feb 6, 2010 18:30:47 GMT -8
Here I am.......beer in hand frustrated as heck. I have a small knocking noise in the XJ coming from what seems to be the bell housing area of the transmission. I dont think its coming from the motor since it changes when I shift it and then it goes away after I take off, and it goes away period after it warms up. My guess was flex plate to Torque Converter bolts were loose which is a common thing on these Jeep tranys. The flywheel looks good, no cracks visible. I also found that I am missing 2 bolts that bolt the motor to the transmission!!! WTF riedchicken. One large lower bolt and one smaller bolt up at the top. As I checked the top bolts in fear that they too were missing, I found that my temperature sender for my gauge was broke as well....which I just replaced cause the old one was broke.....there goes 20 bucks. So, I decided to put a "vent" post up. I think that the two bolts missing may have had a hand in the knocking noise as well. I will button it up tomorrow and see if it fixes the noise. Also no codes have been thrown for that motor running issue I have been having. I think its an issue called "Heat Soak" which basically fries the fuel in the injectors and makes it run like crap. The only thing I can think of is to wrap them in some sort of heat shield tape or spark plug boots. I did some research and the sulfur smell from the exhaust was just the sulfur in the gasoline which reacts with water and then makes that stink when it hits the Catalytic Converter when you have a newer Cat, which it also appears to have a new Cat on it since its not the old one. Lets see if things get better......meanwhile I will drink my cold beer and relax for the night....good grief
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shortbus
Charter Member
Every great day ends in POO!
Posts: 254
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Post by shortbus on Feb 6, 2010 19:26:52 GMT -8
not sure about your year model but mine had a metal fuel rail that would get hot and it would turn the fuel to vapor which is known as (vapor lock) what i did was put the wooden clothes pins on the rail it draws the heat out enough to stop it. It was a big problem in the south havnt heared to much about it up hear.
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Post by fivendime on Feb 8, 2010 20:31:35 GMT -8
I fixed the knocking problem, though I dont know which fix it was. I tightened the locktited the all the Flex Plate bolts and installed the two missing engine bolts and its sound as the day it came from the factory. I also put some locktite on the engine bolts as well, I dont want a 3 dollar flange bolt backing out anymore ;D. I also did the cap, rotor, plugs and wires which it so dearly needed. I attempted to glue the sensor back together which failed since the glue I used apparently doesn't like engine heat so I will have to try something different like epoxy. It runs smoother and a few degrees cooler, I have slightly more power then I used to have. I am super happy it wasn't a rod knock, but was almost certain it wasn't since it didn't have the symptoms of a rod knock. On to the next mess.....whatever that may be. (JEEP) Just emptying every pocket...lol
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Post by fivendime on Mar 4, 2010 18:19:46 GMT -8
OK, I haven't posted this issue yet because I have tried to resolve it to no end so I want to see if anyone else has had or has this problem. After I put this new lift on I now have an issue with clearance with the sway bar, in other words the sway bar end comes in contact with the coil spring up front but only on the drivers side. The passenger side is way clear of it. I had it professionally aligned so that checked out. I just swapped the springs over to see if that would help and it didn't. I think the company should send another spring with the coil winding starting on the back side of the spring perch rather then the front. I think this would push the spring back and not forward like it is. They told me to spin the thing and then tighten down the spring retainer.....UM DUH....you cant since there is a provision for the spring on the bottom perch. So that's my issue, and if anyone has had this problem what is the fix other then re-mounting the sway bar forward more or a new spring. Also.....Caster is set right and actually better then the company recommended. HELP HELP
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redxj
Ok to Drive
Posts: 105
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Post by redxj on Mar 9, 2010 1:04:26 GMT -8
Sway bar disconnects would be the answer with out seeing. JKS2001 are the adjustable to 10" or some thing crazy like that.
I added 2" spacer to my cherokee to get 10" lift and mine started hitting so I just made them longer to clear the spring. Post up a pic of the side view of the angle of the sway bar from the frame.
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Post by fivendime on Apr 25, 2010 22:06:12 GMT -8
little update. Fixed the issue with the sway bar, Iron Rock sent me a new set of links that were 1.5" longer then the ones that come with the kit. I have had them on for some time now and I have no issues with rubbing or hitting
And my most favorite update, I scored an ARB for my dana 30 front for a grand total of 300 bucks. It came with the housing, ring and pinion, and knuckles. If anyone needs or wants a dana 30 housing let me know. I am keeping the knuckles for some customization for a high steer idea I have.
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Post by m38crawler on Apr 29, 2010 9:54:06 GMT -8
Is it a high pinion non disconnect housing? If so i may be interested...
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